We have to say, we’re not very keen of hoity-toidy cuisine experiments like molecular gastronomy. The proof is in the pudding: most all European chefs are returning to their cooking pots and go back to what they did before, preparing real food. Molecular gastronomy finally has become what it should have been for a long time: just a cherry on the cake, a playful touch with some very innovating techniques elevating premium gastronomy just a little bit more. Finished are the days where people stood in line for eccentric dinners where they got served with articifial melon balls exploding in their mouths, espumas à go go and the likes.
But then again there is that guy like the Madrid based topchef and taste guru Adam Melonas (he is the big man in the Madrid tasting lab of Paco Roncerro) who keeps that playful touch without forgetting that food in the first place should taste delicious. Proof: his creation called the ‘Octopop’. Basis of the Octopop is squid cooked to perfection in different phases at an ultra low temperature for about, yes, 20 hours. Hence the cooking process the texture and taste of the squid stay completely intact. Following to that, Melonas cuts the cooked squid in fine pieces and ‘glues’ them together with transglutaminase, an enzyme with binding properties, in order to create a beautiful flower. After that he puts the flowers on stalks of dill. This releases the aromas of the dill without directly influencing the pure taste of the squid flower. Finally the Octopop is dipped into a gelatin emulsion of orange and saffron and served with a ‘Dill Pelligrino’, a gas like, transparant and cold infusion based on the famous Italian sparkling water, San Pelligrino, which boost the tasting buds to the limit. Spectacular to see and to taste. www.madridlab.net