Frills, fripperies, flirtatious fun…they’ve taken a step back this season, as beauty has pulled into line with fashion in it’s key proposal: the question of how a modern, intelligent, pulled together woman wants to look as she operates in the world today. It’s pragmatic. It’s considered. And certainly aware that a real interest lies where world cultures come together. Hence a culturally diverse and dynamic mood underpins AW2012, with the craft and art of beauty being explored and celebrated in myriad takes on global makeup gestures. It’s not so much a culture clash as a cultural collaboration, about interpreting familiar beauty accents through international eyes. Less important than the specific origins of these looks (from ancient Japan to the Italian Renaissance, British beauties to Slavic maidens…) is the idea of a new vocabulary of beauty reference points that are truly global in their vision.
Equally important as a world view is a sense of structure. Whether that’s done by creating a compelling bone structure or by anchoring the face with an extremely tailored feature – a red lip, a graphic black eye, or a more masterful brow (the definitive feature of AW2012), these looks project a cleansed approach to glamour that is at once timeless yet uncompromisingly modern by virtue of the execution exhibiting an attitude of knowing, womanly strength. Yet nothing about this beauty is unattainably hard or severe. This season’s femininity references a certain sense of the masculine (those straight brows and that sculpted bone structure), but we’ve moved on from the (now old) idea of the ‘androgynous’. Sure, the international woman of AW2012 is no champion of overt sexiness, but don’t equate her lack of purposeful provocation with looking boyish. AW2012 is very much about a woman, but one wise and masterful enough with her style to play with a more controlled contemporaneity.
Indeed, the passé pastiche of jet set, ‘expensive’ style seems vulgar compared to something more authentic and real. “Luxury is not the same as ostentation,” confirms Lyne Desnoyers. “The opulence this season is in the details, which is, of course, the pure definition of chic.”… www.maccosmetics.com